Colombia:These are the Days

When I arrived back in Medellin I chose a hostel in the Laureles section.  The area that I had stayed in previously, where the school was located, was very nice but probably too nice for me while traveling. So this time when I arrived back in Medellin I chose a hostel in a section I was told was still fun, but a little more gritty, and a lot less gringos.

I didn’t realize just how much less gringos until I checked into my hostel and found out I was the only person there, and only one other person was booked for the next night.  Fortunately, later someone else checked into my hostel, Charbel, a Lebanese Canadian.  We hit it off and had dinner and drinks that night.

To say he was interesting is an understatement.  He has a shaved head and wears baggy clothes that make him look like a swami.  He’s been traveling the world for 8 years going home to Canada for only a couple months each year.  We spent the night on the strip that runs through Laureles, it’s about a kilometer long and comes alive at night, lined on both sides of the street with bars, restaurants, street food vendors, and table merchants. We had a good time that night debating world views but also a lot of laughs between us and others, including a late night Shawarma guy.

I was alone for dinner the next night since Charbel had moved on but as I was walking down the street looking for food, I passed the Shawarma guy from the night before as he was setting up.  I got a scream of amigo and a hug.  I guess we really were funny the night before. These are the days.

That next day I toured parts of Medellin I ignored while I was being a good student the week before.  Medellin is a city in a valley and to house the millions of people, vast neighborhoods up and down the steep slopes surrounding the city are filled with small homes, built with large brownish red bricks.  As the city emerged from the drug wars they realized the poor people living up in the hills were isolated and had no prospects because of their lack of access to the rest of the city.  To resolve this they built 6 cable cars (gondolas) and one escalator network in these hillsides to integrate the city together.

At the top of one of these cable cars is Park Arvi, a massive forested park the size of a small city. As you leave the cable car station heading to the park,you have a view of all of Medellín, the full length and across the valley where it seems you can see every house, every building in the city (weather permitting since clouds and rain moved in prior to my return trip).  You quickly leave the last remnants of the barrio, and for over 15 minutes, a gondola transports you over rolling hills of forest.  Once at the top I was surprised by just how large the park was.  I walked a paved road in the rain for about 45 minutes but there are singletrack trails you can walk, some for over 4 hours.  It’s so big taxis waiting for rides were on a road as I exited the gondola area.

The next day I headed to Guatepe.  An old town that now sits next to a man made lake and a big rock where thousands of tourists walk up the steps daily for the viewpoint.  The next day, two Scottish guys from the Spanish school, Blair and Jack, and I did just that.  We hiked to and up the rock, then watched my new favorite team Forest beat ManU at the base, we then walked around one of the back roads that goes from the town to the rock.  Along the way people sitting outside their homes continually greeted us and I got a big smile, thumbs up, and gracias from a cyclist when I said “muy bueno” as he crested a big hill (Spanish lessons are paying off).  Once back in town we had drinks in a section where many umbrellas hang over a narrow walkway (apparently every town has these umbrella things).  Overall the hiking wasn’t anything special and the rock was actually disappointing, but because of the comradery on the day, this was one of the most enjoyable and memorable days of the trip so far. These are the days.

The next day was New Years Eve and I wanted a small Colombian town New Years so I opted to stay in Guatepe rather than return to Medellin.  I was not disappointed.  The festivities started around sunset with a parade and crowds 4 deep on the sidewalks.  The locals dressed up in crazy costumes, decorated wild and funny floats, and pulled out their instruments for 2+ hours of craziness.  It didn’t matter if you were in the parade or in the crowd, people all around were drinking, shooting off fireworks, and spraying people with a sudsy white foam (like shaving cream) from canisters purchased all around town.  It was impossible not to get hit in the crossfire of the constant foam fights.  New Years itself was much tamer and less crowded as people dispersed to parties.  We hung around the bars in the town square and at midnight a constant stream of firecrackers and fireworks around town began. These are the days.

I am told Colombia has some traditions for New Years for the following year.  If you want a boyfriend/girlfriend at midnight you sit under a table at new years.  Want to travel, run around the block with an empty suitcase.  Want money, I heard either put cash or lentils in your pocket (the lentils may be a translation misunderstanding but I like it).  Eat 12 grapes and you get a wish.  But my favorite and what covers the most, wear new yellow underwear and you’re guaranteed both love and happiness.

Pretty much everywhere I have gone this trip, street dogs have been present and unlike previous trips, been very friendly.  Often one will temporarily adopt you, walk with you or sit with you and this may happen with the same dog on multiple days.  Guatepe was even more interesting. When I arrived by myself and walked to my hostel, a big black dog that I was initially hesitant about came towards me, but then just started walking closely behind me.  It ended up following me into my hostel and laid down behind me as I checked in.  A little while after checking in I went down to the common area and the dog came over and laid down next to me.  After a few minutes I was going to go for a walk but needed to go upstairs to get my jacket, as I headed towards the stairs the dog gave me a look of where are you going.  When I came down and started for the door he immediately got up and walked with me until I got to the crowded touristy section of town.  During my time in Guatepe, if I wasn’t with friends and I sat in that common area or went out for a walk, most of the time the dog would appear out of nowhere to keep me company. 

After New Years I headed back to Medellin for what I planned to be just a work trip.  I had a new loan starting and I had been neglecting my PM work for my friends so it was time to buckle down for the week.  Well, I got my work done but had great fun at the same time.  And also realized after wandering further around my supposed gritty area, well…it isn’t totally gritty after all.  As a matter of fact, it’s probably even nicer with lots of parks and coffee shops just a 10 minute walk from my hostel (I worked each morning in a peaceful setting outside at a coffee shop overlooking a park).

My first night back in town didn’t start out well though, it started with…a Karen (not you Kosten). Initially I met an American girl in the hostel that worked for Google but was able to work remotely (so was not your typical backpacker).  After talking a bit we decided to go to dinner together, and that is when it went bad.   A waiter came to our table and she asked a question in Spanish, the way only a gringo could annunciate (trust me I know) and the waiter had no clue what she said.  So she repeated the same question, only this time louder.  He ultimately walked away to find someone that spoke English better than him and after he left, she started ranting loudly in English about saying exactly what she meant in Spanish, and how ridiculous it was that he could not understand her.  I couldn’t get away fast enough.

After going our separate ways after dinner I met my dorm mate Manuel from Argentina.  We spent the next hour talking, me practicing my Spanish and him practicing his English.  A couple of Colombian girls from Cali, Viviana and Lina, then joined us and the language transfer (and Salsa lesson) continued.  After they got over the shocking news that I had already ate dinner at the unbelievable hour of 7pm, I joined them at 10pm as they went out for dinner (evidently if they eat at 7pm they get hungry at 3am).  Mucho divertido conversacion took place and at one point I just sat back and thought about what was happening and to really appreciate it.  Here I am in Colombia around midnight, sitting at a table with two Colombian girls and a guy from Argentina, me barely able to communicate with them but somehow making the communication work, and all of us with big smiles on our faces just having fun. These are the days.

My last day in Medellin I had my now usual tranquil work morning at the coffee shop but went on a walking tour in the afternoon with an Italian girl that is currently volunteering in Cusco Peru. The tour was one of the more interesting ones, discussing the conflicts that impacted Medellin in the 20th century and how it has emerged from the violence.  After the tour I hung out with my new Italian friend and her two Italian co-volunteers until I left that evening on an overnight bus, but with an invitation to be shown around Cusco when I arrive there.  These are the days.

These are the days that make traveling great.

Life is Good!!