My plan for after Colombia was all over the place. Initially it was Brazil but how exactly to get there was a question. Then as my desire to learn Spanish grew, thoughts of delaying Brazil and heading south to stay in Spanish speaking countries creeped in. The countries I planned on visiting wouldn’t change much, just my direction and the order that I visited them.
Ultimately I stuck with Brazil and set a plan to meet some friends, Dick and Shannon from Denver, in Rio. Paraguay became my means to an end as it was the cheapest and easiest way to get to Brazil, but more importantly, Iguazu Falls. Something I regretted not seeing on my last trip to Argentina. And even though Paraguay was meant to be a quick trip (I had just over two weeks to get to Rio), I’d still be able to explore another country. Well, I didn’t realize just how quick my trip to Paraguay would be.
I researched Paraguay before I got there and according to the Lonely Planet, there is not much to do or see. None the less I flew into Asuncion, the capital city and booked a room in a small family run hostel (more like a homestay) for 3 nights. I assumed once I got Paraguay people could offer some insights and recommendations. After I landed, I spoke with a German guy that has spent months in Paraguay and when I asked him what I should do he offered nothing, he said there is not much to do or see. When I asked my hosts what to do or see, they mentioned a couple things I had found in my research that didn’t appeal to me, a beach on a river (I’ll wait for beaches in Brazil) and a tour of a dam (just no). Friends let me tell you, in Paraguay, there is not much to do or see.
Asuncion, their capital city is a dump. There are about 4 blocks in the City Center and two neighborhoods several miles away that are inviting to walk around. That is it. As a matter of fact, Asuncion is the first place I ever researched that stresses the areas that are safe to walk around rather than those that are unsafe (second city now is Rio). So during my time here I spent a day walking around the city center and another walking the two nice neighborhoods.
The city center might be the most depressing city I have ever been in. It is what I picture some eastern bloc communist countries must have been like. It was sunny but everything still seemed grey. Buildings were in use but still looked decrepit. People did not smile. People did not laugh. It was so boring I walked around to find the hostels I considered staying at, as if those were big city landmarks.
The neighborhoods were better, obviously where the more well off people of Asuncion live. Coffee shops, restaurants, shopping malls were all around. However still not great considering I found myself walking around shopping malls just to feel like I was getting enough movement.
It wasn’t all bad however, they sell bacon flavored microwave popcorn and on my second day I bought my bus ticket to Brazil (for day 4). Actually, by far the highlight of my time in Paraguay were my hosts. The mother was very sweet and I spent a lot of time talking with her adult son Rudolph (yes he pointed to his nose when he told me his name). BTW, when I say talking I mean in Espanol. I feel like I had my first true ongoing conversation in Spanish. Our first conversation lasted probably 30 minutes and although we needed Google translate a little, it was very little. I didn’t understand every word that was spoken but enough to grasp what was being said, and somehow could respond (still not sure how). In the end I was excited and proud of myself. Evidently my Spanish was so good when it came time to leave, I was told whenever I’m in Paraguay, that was my house and was asked to return so the son can show me his knife building workshop and BBQ skills.
Next up, Iguazuuuuuuuuu.